"Getting keen on Keenan";, Napa winery makes wines with substance, no hypeMichael Lonsford - the Houston Chronicle - September 2004
“Michael (Keenan) was in Houston recently to show the Keenan flag. I met him and Kyle Britt of Prestige Wine Cellars at Mockingbird Bistro to chat and taste the wines. I told Keenan it had been a while since I had tasted the Keenan wines, but I fondly remembered that 1980 cabernet. Basically, Keenan said, things haven't changed much at Keenan. The repertoire remains Chardonnay, Cabernet and Merlot, plus a blend of Cab and Merlot that Keenan calls "Mernet." On the Chardonnay: ‘It's like a cross between California and Burgundy. We don't use malolactic fermentation, and the oak should be secondary.’ On Merlot: ‘The 2000 is drinking so well now, it's perfect for restaurants. The 2000 vintage is a watershed year for us, because we had to replant so much in the mid-'90s due to phylloxera and Pierce's disease, and the new vines have finally come up to strength.’ On Cabernet: ‘The 2000 is drinking so well, I call it `the delicious factor.' The wine's very supple.’ On marketing: ‘We're at 10-12,000 cases, and percentage wise we're about 80-20 in restaurants. We think our wines show best with food.’ Speaking of food: ‘You'll think I'm crazy, but I like our Chardonnay with a cold roast-beef sandwich with horseradish.’ IN THE WINE CART 5 Stars – Outstanding, 4 Stars – Fine, 3 Stars – Good, 2 Stars – Fair, 1 Star – Poor, ( ) indicates ageability 2002 Robert Keenan Chardonnay - 3 1/2 STARS - good example of restrained style of mountain chardonnay, with apple, pear, stone-fruit and citrus nuances; not big, fat or buttery, thank you; $27.50. 2000 Robert Keenan Merlot - 4 STARS - well-balanced, supple, with some intensity; mid-$30s. 2000 Robert Keenan Spring Mountain Merlot Reserve - 4 1/2 STARS - meatier, more complex, blacker fruit; really needs a steak on the table; $57.50. 1999 Robert Keenan Cabernet Sauvignon - 4 STARS (1/2)- well-balanced, intense, good fruit and acidity; could maybe use another year, although drinking well now; $49. 2000 Robert Keenan Cabernet Sauvignon - 4 STARS (1/2) - nice wine, young, supple tannins, bright fruit. 2000 Robert Keenan Mernet Reserve - 4 STARS - good, solid, fairly intense and complex, and thankfully not over the top; $75.” Excerpt from Michael Lonsford’s column in the Houston Chronicle, September, 2004
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