Napa's Spring Mountain Bursting with Gems

San Jose Mercury News, March 9, 2005

Posted on Wed, Mar. 09, 2005

Napa's Spring Mountain

Bursting With Gems

By Laurie Daniel

Special to the Mercury News

The Napa Valley does such an effective job of speaking with one voice that it's easy to forget that the valley actually encompasses 14 smaller appellations (with a 15th in the works) with their own microclimates, soils, exposures and elevations. Some of these appellations -- technically known as American Viticultural Areas, or AVAs -- are well-known, such as Carneros (part of which falls in Sonoma County), Oakville or Rutherford. These days, the AVA that's getting much of the buzz is Spring Mountain.

There is no actual Spring Mountain -- it's more of a saddle between Mount Veeder and Diamond Mountain, in the Mayacamas Mountains on the western edge of Napa Valley. The AVA, which is perched above the town of St. Helena, takes its name from the area's numerous natural springs. The terrain is steep in some places, rolling in others, with a variety of exposures, although most of the vineyards are basically east-facing and protected from the intense summer afternoon sun. There have been grapes on Spring Mountain since the 1870s, and wineries such as Robert Keenan, Smith-Madrone and Cain Vineyard have been there for a quarter-century or more. But the area's reputation has exploded in the past 10 years or so.

Spring Mountain is red wine country -- specifically, cabernet sauvignon. The cabs are powerful, rich, dense and dark. There's substantial tannin -- and, sometimes, alcohol -- but the fruit is so concentrated and rich that it balances those other elements. Merlot performs well, too, resulting in a wine with an almost cabernet-like intensity.

Pride Mountain Vineyards, one of Spring Mountain's top wineries, sits at the very top of the hill. Because its vineyards push into Sonoma County, some of the wines can't be labeled with a Spring Mountain appellation. Winemaker Bob Foley notes that he picks red grapes into November. ``We actually ripen our fruit in the fall, not in the summer,'' he says. The fall has fewer heat spikes, so Spring Mountain sees slow, even ripening; the grapes continue to develop flavors without gaining too much sugar content. Foley adds that there's often some rain before the harvest -- nothing too severe, just enough to ``wash the fruit off and brighten the cuvee.''

The 2002 Pride Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon ($62) is intense, dark and concentrated, with black fruit, a note of roasted coffee and firm but approachable tannins. The 2002 merlot ($52) is also outstanding, with opulent fruit and a spicy cola note.

The cabernets from Barnett Vineyards are powerful yet refined. The 2002 cabernet ($60) has intense cherry and raspberry flavors, with a hint of pencil lead and ripe tannins. The rarer 2002 Rattlesnake Hill cabernet ($100) is even more expressive.

Frias Family Vineyard is another Spring Mountain cab producer to look for. There's a lovely purity to the fruit in the 2001 Frias Family cabernet ($65), coupled with very firm structure.

Several newer wineries have sprung up in the appellation in the past few years. Terra Valentine was started in 1999 at the old Yverdon winery property. It produces a pair of concentrated, mouth-filling cabs. The 2001 regular bottling ($35, a relative bargain for Spring Mountain cab) is very good, but the 2001 Wurtele Vineyard ($50) is even more intense. Even newer is Fantesca Estate. The first vintage, 2001 ($50), still carries an old label, Shadow Lace, from the previous owners. The 2002 ($60, August release) is a step up in concentration and quality.

The new properties are exciting, but it would be a mistake to overlook some of the old-timers. Robert Keenan Winery and Spring Mountain Vineyard both are back on track after some lackluster years. The 2001 Robert Keenan Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve ($79) is outstanding, with intense, dark cherry and raspberry fruit and a long finish. And the 2001 Spring Mountain Elivette ($90), a cabernet-dominated blend, is concentrated and a little earthy, with dark fruit and tannins that build toward the finish. Both the Keenan and the Spring Mountain will greatly benefit from some further aging.

In addition to Pride Mountain's version, other merlots to look for are the rich, concentrated 2002 Paloma ($51) and the powerful 2002 Barnett ($45).

Although Spring Mountain is best known for reds, the appellation is home to some striking whites, too. At the top of the hill, Smith-Madrone produces one of California's best rieslings ($17). Pride Mountain has an excellent viognier ($40), one of the best California versions I've tasted. And toward the bottom of the appellation is the pioneering Stony Hill Vineyard, founded in 1952 and known for its remarkably long-aging chardonnay ($26).