Peaks and Valleys for California Merlot

Tim Fish - Wine Spectator October 15, 2004

2001 isn’t the outstanding vintage many expected, but some exciting wines were made

Expectations for the 2001 California Merlots were high, especially afer the top of the class was names Wine Spectator’s Wine of the Year for 2003.

The Paloma Spring Mountain District 2001 ($45) scored 95 points on our 100-point scale and ranks as the highest-rated California Merlot to date.  Deeply concentrated, it gushes with ripe, opulent fruit and polished tannins.   Paloma demonstrates not only the true potential of the 2001 vintage, but also just how special that Spring Mountain vineyard above Napa Valley is.

With the likes of Paloma, it’s a very good vintage for Merlot - a step above 2000, if not  quite rivaling 1999 or the outstanding 1994 vintage.  Napa fared best, with 20 wines - or about 20 percent - receiving outstanding scores, while Merlots from Sonoma were less successful, with only two outstanding wines so far.

Of the nearly 160 2001 Merlots we’ve tasted since our last report (Oct. 15, 2003), the top echelon consistes of the Paloma and seven that rated 93 points.  That group includes two Merlots and a Merlot-based blend from Pride Montain Vineyards:  the Merlot Napa-Sonoma Counties ($48), Merlot Sonoma County Mountain Top Vineyard Vintner Select Cuvee ($64) and the Claret Reserve Napa Valley ($115).  Rounding out the list are the Behrens and Hitchcock Oakville Fortuna Vineyard ($48), Lewis Napa Valley ($50), Pahlmeyer Napa Valley ($80) and Provenance Mount Veeder Paras Vineeyard ($34).