Spring Mountain

Food & Wine - October 2004

Country: United States

Grape: Cabernet

“We’re sort of a neighborly but private group,” says Michael Marston of Marston Family Vineyard, referring to the winegrowers of Spring Mountain District, ,near the town of St. Helena in Napa Valley. “I didn’t get around to paving the road for 20 years.”

It’s true that there is a low-key feel to Spring Mountain. Great Cabernet has been produced up here since the 1870s, but it wasn’t until the 1980s that vineyard owners decided to apply of an American Viticultural Area designation (it finally came through in 1993).

Since then, and especially in the last three or four years, Spring Mountain seems to get mentioned more and more. What sets it apart? “The region mostly faces east, and in the morning the vineyards are above the fog, so there’s more sunlight,” says Tom Ferrell, general manager of Spring Mountain Vineyard. “The cool afternoons help produce wine of tremendous color and bright, berrylike character.” That climate also gives the wine a very long life: The best bottles can age well for decades.

Bottles to Buy

Look for Cabernets from Sherwin Family Vineyards, Peacock Family Vineyard and, particularly, Marston Family Vineyard.

The 2001 Marston Family Vineyard Cabernet ($65) is a seductive wine this is loaded with sweet black-currant flavor and velvety tannins.

The 2001 Spring Mountain Vineyard Elivette ($90) seamlessly mixes Cabernet flavor and dark, spicy tannins.

The 2001 Vineyard 7 and 8 Vineyard 7 Estate ($85) hews to a more Bordelais line — ex-Chateau Latour winemaker Christian LeSommer consults here — with pure red currant fruit.

The 2001 Terra Valentine ($35) offers intense balck-cherry flavor and is very appealing, especially at this price.